Velez Pizza Oven

Hello!

I wanted to reach out as I have been scouring the forums and learning as we began building our pizza oven. I wanted to document our adventure and get some tips along the way!

4 days ago we did our slabs and base. And the foundation for our prep and brick grill. While waiting we are working on our pavers in our backyard. Tomorrow we will be placing our cinder blocks.

We forgot to tamper before setting up our 2x8 but we fixed that right afterwards.

Questions so far:

As I’m drawing up some inspiration from looking at others ovens. For the finish I will be stucco’ing and sealing. (We live in Florida) and I like the look of stone veneers. Speaking of veneers what color would you recommend with maroon pavers? Will it be okay to use faux veneers over the oven? Will a cover be necessary due to our rain /heat weather?

Thanks y’all! By “we” I mean my husband and I. Really exited and glad to share and take any advice!

1 Like

Excellent job on your project thus far! And great pictures! Please take as many pictures as you can (and video too) for your upcoming BrickWood Ovens Photo Gallery page.

Last question first… Covering the oven. Since you are in FL, you do get some hard, driving rains. So you might want to go want step more than spraying your oven w/ a masonry sealer (which we still recommend). But you might also want to invest in a pizza oven cover. We didn’t have much luck w/ one here in WA as the winds tore our cover in no time… but if you live in a pretty mellow area (for wind), then you might want to take a look at a custom cover - Cover for Barile Grande

Now, to the first part of your question: You live in Florida… Your pavers are Maroon… There is only one conceivable color your veneer should be - GOLD (or Tan, Wheat, etc…). But I’m a second generation 'Nole and having been born in Tallahassee… I might be a little biased.

2 Likes

Hehe. That’s perfect! That’s the colors we picked!!!

1 Like

Because of the rain we couldn’t begin on Sunday, and on Monday we finished the pavers. So today we started and boy I thought this was going to be quick, but we were so meticulous on leveling everything that it took us about 8 hrs just to do 4 rows. The 5th row will be done tomorrow.


Now the instructions say when the 5 rows are finished to let 48 hrs to dry. Is this drying time apart from the slabs (4-6 days of drying time)??

2 Likes

My previous post the gif didn’t upload properly. Here’s another try. Enjoy! image

1 Like

They can go at the same time. The concrete and mortar in the concrete blocks will dry more quickly because moisture is being drawn out of the wet material by the blocks themselves. Also, there is much less volume of material there.

The slabs need more time because it is a relatively large amount of concrete, and the wood forms will not draw out the moisture as quickly. It takes up to 30 days for the slabs to reach their full rated strength, but by day 6 they are strong enough to unmold and move.

Your base will be very strong by the time you lift the slabs onto it.

(Oh, and welcome to the BrickWood forums! I will be doing a similar patio next summer to surround our oven, so I love seeing your photos.)

2 Likes

Thanks! Trying to get a lot of knowledge!

Thanks for that info. Really helpful! Saturday hopefully we can put the slabs on and since I’m using a perlite/Portland mixture. We can possibly start laying bricks Monday. Fingers crossed.

2 Likes

@BrickWood @bikerbudmatt

So I am looking further in designs for my oven. Would it be possible to build an arch inside the oven and outside of the oven as most round ovens tend to have? Also if possible would it be better than to move the chimney closer to the outside arch. I hope this makes sense I will attach a picture for reference.

Also saw in this diagram that they use vermiculite instead of stucco. Any benefits of using this mix or a perlite mix and then stucco?

Hi Ana,

While that would certainly be possible, I’d suggest that you would lose some of the advantages of this design, and wouldn’t gain much.

It looks like the designer wants to incorporate a dead air space between the inner and outer barrels, otherwise it wouldn’t work to retain heat. The outer shell would thus have to be built freestyle (no form). While I recognize that this is more of a schematic, I’m thinking that the design also depends less on the insulation blanket to retain heat.

I think the biggest issue would be you don’t have enough room on your slab as specified. You could build a bigger slab, but it would need to be in proportion to your base, which would also need to be built to a wider dimension to keep it under the walls of your oven and bear the load properly. A secondary consideration is that you would need about 70 more firebrick and corresponding amounts of the refractory mortar to build a second arch. Add another 25 firebrick for the third arch (for the door). The refractory tiles aren’t a bad idea, though I see the designer has them placed at right angles which could lead to catching the edge of a peel if any of them heave.

I believe the layer labeled “vermiculite render” is actually similar to the Vermiculite/Portland cement mix specified for the insulation layer in the hearth slab. First, I’d substitute Perlite for Vermiculite to avoid an insanely-long curing time, and I would mix it with Type S mortar rather than Portland cement. It would add the benefit of extra insulation, because in this design there isn’t going to be enough room to do a full double-layered mineral fiber blanket. The disadvantage is that the Perlite or Vermiculite will weaken the scratch layer, which is the foundation of your protective shell over the oven. With a single, thin finish layer the stucco layer would be vulnerable to impact or crush damage.

The chimney should not move closer to the outside arch. Your fires will be toward the back and along the sides. Fresh air comes in through the door opening or around the edges of the door and travels along the floor. Hot exhaust gases travel up and along the apex of the arch, then forward because of the pressure from the fresh air below. The chimney opening is placed to intercept those hot gases before they reach the door. Placing it any closer means a 50/50 chance that they will simply get through the door rather than being drawn up.

The big advantage the BrickWood design brings to the table is its simplicity. I don’t see the double arch adding much to the design, and the construction looks much more elaborate than it needs to be.

Hope this helps, Ana. It’s great to look at other designs!

1 Like

We’re getting there! It has been raining a lot here where I am, so the project has been pushed back a bit. :sweat_smile: but in no time! And being very patient.

1 Like

So you’re about two weeks in and you are installing the insulation in the hearth slab. You are doing great!