Can you use a clay flue pipe for the chimney instead of the stainless steel pipe? I like the look better. Obviously I will be using a cap for the pipe.
Absolutely! But you won’t be able to use the DuraTech Damper.
I am building the Mattone Barile Grande and I want to use a square or rectangle shaped clay flue, with a damper. What is the actual required size I should use to ensure proper venting? Does it go by square inches?
If you are using a square exhaust, the dimensions are 6" x 6" - INSIDE the clay or terracotta pipe.
Does anyone have any pictures of the detail necessary or used to use a clay flue? I am trying to visualize how the clay flue is supported during construction.
Just a thought, to install a metal version you cut out spaces in the base layer chimney bricks to make room, instead…why not just not cut the notches in the base-layer chimney bricks to provide a natural brick “shelf” to hold the flue? then do cut the notches in the chimney brick layers after the initial layer…then mortal it in secure.
Or…if you’ve already cut the base bricks in the chimney layer just leave (or stick back in if already removed) the styrofoam mold in to support the flue while you mortar it in. If you didn’t purchase a styrofoam mold, then build a temporary base to support it out of wood.
@BillD, this one is probably your best bet, since you’re still at the floor stage. You can pretty much follow the instructions for the round chimney kit, except that you need to account for the flue pipe shape instead. For what it’s worth, I’ve followed the method some of our members have posted and left off building the back wall until after the mold is extracted. I think that will help you here.
Thanks for helping out! Sounds like I just need to forge ahead and conquer the see where this journey takes me. It seems the clay flue should go all he way to the bottom of the chimney courses, like it should rest directly on the Styrofoam form, but then it is only mortar supporting the flue. I can notch the bottom course of chimney bricks to accept the flue, but then the flue doesn’t go all the way through to the oven. Maybe this isn’t a problem. I’m a retired school superintendent, not even close to a mason… except for this project. Thanks again.
I don’t think it is. The base of the flue will be surrounded by firebrick. Use a sealant all the way around (no gaps) and maybe a fiberglass rope (stove door gasket) cemented into the gap between the bottom of the flue and the oven top. You can check the BrickWood store for the sealant, which would be the same that’s used on the DuraTech kits they sell. I know he often recommends Rutland products, because they are a standard in the wood stove industry.
I think you’re doing just fine, and thinking things through really gets rewarded by this process.
Thank you! I appreciate the encouraging nudge forward!
Plz be sure to add pics &/or video and let us know how it went. We get many emails inquiring about clay / terra cotta pipes, so I’d love to be able to add your success to the forum.
If you send me your pipe dimensions (inside & outside), I’ll contact our DuraTech supplier and see if he can suggest / recommend any caps or dampers that may fit your pipe. I know DuraVent only has components for their products - but he may know of another brand that will work.